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Prishtina, Kosova Dear Friends, I was in the middle of writing about our trip to Vlora and our arrival in Kosova but events intervened and I will have to put that off until later. But I do want to write about our experience here in Kosova the last couple of days. Yesterday afternoon as we were wrapping up our class Emine’s cell phone beeped. She’s our translator. It was a news message "Terrorist attacks on World Trade Center and Pentagon." I wrapped up the class as a sad faced hotel porter with a handlebar moustache guided me to a chair in front of a large screen TV in the hotel bar, his hand softly on my shoulder, just in time to see a tower of the World Trade Center collapse, live on TV. Television had created a world community. That evening the usual corso, or promenade, along Mother Therese Boulevard was very thin as Kosovars watched the events on TV. Then an extraordinary thing happened. Kosovars, without prompting, carrying candles and flowers began walking to the top of Dragadon Hill to where the US Office, what passes for an Embassy here, sits. The US Office was under increased security lockdown, with US troops forming a perimeter around the facility. As people in homes began seeing their neighbors walking up the streets they joined them. By 2 AM a local TV station had a crew on the hill and Kosovars, seeing the candles and flowers on TV, joined in large numbers. Student Radio started playing classical music. People placed candles around the perimeter and laid flowers in front of the soldiers. Wednesday morning we were approached by people recognizing us as Americans. "Please accept our thoughts and sorrow." "America stood by Kosova, now we will stand by you," "Kosovars understand terror, and we want you to know that we are with you." There was a vigil scheduled on Mother Therese Boulevard for three PM. I announced to the class that we would dismiss class early because "Being reporters you will want to cover this." A reporter replied. "Not only because I am a reporter, but because I an a man who wants to express my feelings for America." The vigil was a most moving experience. We joined the crowd walking up Mother Therese Boulevard and folded into a group of students heading toward the National Theater. We passed the monument to a fallen KLA fighter who held an American flag in his bronze hand. The crowd grew to thousands, quiet and respectful. The street was full. We passed a group of nurses dressed in white carrying red flowers. In front of the National Theater hundreds of people carried American flags. Someone had printed posters with the American Flag that said "Amerike, e ndajme dhembjen me ty!" (America, we are with you!) signed "The people of Kosovo." On the stairs of the theater the American and Albanian flags flew together over a banner saying "Stop Terrorist In the World." (sic) There are so many mental snapshots; a boy holding a candle in one hand and a pole with a large American flag the other; an Imam in a turban holding a "We are with you" poster standing with a woman holding a small American flag and a carnation; an Imam and Nun standing on the top steps of the theater. About half an hour into the vigil a group of young men started chanting "U-S-A, U-S-A." Others in the crowd hushed the men. An older man started a speech denouncing terrorists and bringing the wrath of Allah on them. Again the crowd quieted him. This was a vigil, not a demonstration. At about 3:45 the crowd quietly disbursed. Some of the buildings along Mother Therese Boulevard had rows of candles in front and up the steps into apartments. It was a very moving experience. The mood was somewhat broken when we walked into the Grand Hotel. A bombastic version of "God Bless America" was on the PA system. While I appreciate the sentiment, I’ve never really liked that song, perhaps because I’ve never really liked Kate Smith. But the kindness, the love, the support shown to us these last two days is something I will never forget. Take Care, Rich McClear
@ 2001 Rich McClear If you want to see photos of that day in Kosovo click here.
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